3-Day Self-Driven Tour in Liangshan Yi Autonomous Prefecture

Liangshan Yi Autonomous Prefecture, to me, is as unfamiliar and distant as its name suggests, filled with an air of mystery. In August, I had the fortune to attend the Torch Festival in Xichang and was given the opportunity to explore the vast Liangshan Mountains by car. However, the region is truly expansive, and the scenery I encountered in three days was merely the tip of the iceberg. I was captivated by the wild atmosphere as I drove along the primitive mountain roads and explored the entirely unfamiliar land. The confluence of the Jinsha River, Yalong River, and Dadu River creates a complex and diverse topography within Liangshan, with dense forests, abundant flora and fauna, interwoven mountains and canyons, towering peaks, and most mountains exceeding an altitude of 4000 meters. Numerous ethnic minorities—Yi, Tibetan, Naxi, Moso, and others—have inhabited this land for generations, their mysterious and rich cultural heritage contributing to the stunning cultural landscape. Deep in the mountains, I encountered Yi women in traditional attire, with exquisite patterns and intricate headwear, engaged in their daily labors from sunrise to sunset, surrounded by returning flocks, their gazes resolute. The vast and spiritual natural scenery of Liangshan enhanced my sensory experience, facing Buddha in the ancient temples amidst the mountains, enveloped by the silence of the great mountains, my heart seemed to gain wisdom and strength. This kind of travel experience is starkly different from bustling city tours. The high-altitude saturated blue skies and white clouds left me seeing everything as hazy for a long time after returning, while the brilliant sunlight in the mountains swept away the dust of my heart. An unforgettable journey, I roamed in the wilderness, feeling free as the wind passed through the open fields. Liangshan Self-Driven Tour Route: Day 1: Arrival in Xichang—Huili Ancient City (approximately 100 miles, 2.5-hour drive)—Red Impression Restaurant for dinner—Stay at Huili Muchun Hotel. Day 2: Mianning Yi Sea—Mianning Tofu Pudding for lunch—Meigu County—Dafengding—Meigu Platinum Zhixiang Hotel—Muli (approximately 105 miles, 4-hour drive)—Muli Monastery—Muli Monastery Restaurant—Shangri-La Lake—Stay at Muli All Seasons Hotel. Day 3: Departure to Lugu Lake (Sichuan entrance)—Lugu Lake—Lugu Lake Grandmother’s Banquet—Stay at Moso Homeland and return to Xichang (approximately 145 miles, 6-hour drive). [Notes] √ Self-driving in Liangshan is mostly on mountain roads with complex conditions, no highways, and the way is often blocked by cattle and sheep. It is recommended to hire a local driver and choose a four-wheel-drive off-road vehicle or SUV. √ Clothing: Experiencing the temperatures of four seasons in a day is common. It is recommended to prepare for beautiful spring and summer dresses while also bringing warm and windproof long-sleeved clothes and pants. Rich hot spring resources, bring swimming gear.
Beware of the strong ultraviolet rays in highland areas, and take precautions against sunburn. Be sure to carry painkillers, anti-inflammatory drugs, cold medicine, motion sickness pills, and stomach medicine, as I personally experienced catching a cold on the first day. Prepare water and food for the journey, as you will spend most of the day on the road. Before setting off, have water and snacks ready. Gently in the old times, Huili Ancient City is the only well-preserved Ming Dynasty garrison city in the country, named for ‘the convergence of rivers and plains, and the governance of peace and reason’. The city center still maintains a relatively complete Ming and Qing Dynasty architecture. Shops on the streets are all one-story wooden buildings with green tile roofs. Unlike many ancient cities, it does not look like a tourist attraction; shops and restaurants are like those we encounter downstairs in our daily lives, selling noodle dishes that the common people like to eat and selling some daily necessities. The alleys hide a large number of Ming and Qing Dynasty buildings, temples, guild halls, and ancient residences… As you stroll around, you might unexpectedly encounter a historical relic. In the evening, thousands of red lanterns light up throughout the ancient city, and you are intoxicated in the gentle texture of the ancient city. There are also various famous ancient trees in the ancient city area, where you can see precious tree species such as cypress, ancient banyan, willow, coptis, ginkgo, zhu lan, and elm trees, as well as 96 ancient wells, many of which are still in use today. [Tour Guide] √ Address: Beidajie, Huili County, Liangshan Yi Autonomous Prefecture, Sichuan Province √ Ancient City Walking Route: From north to south, from Gongji Tower to Lingxiao Tower Gongji Tower is located at the northern entrance of the ancient city, sitting on the thick city wall. The existing city wall was made of earth before the Yuan Dynasty, and during the Hongwu period of the Ming Dynasty, it was paved with stone blocks, creating a unique ‘Yuan bone Ming style’. Bell and Drum Tower The Bell and Drum Tower was built in the twelfth year of the Qing Yongzheng period and was completed in the Qianlong period, incorporating the ‘Five Stars Embrace the Moon’ rooftop design inspired by the corner tower of the Forbidden City, which is unique in Southwest China. The North Gate Tower, which echoes the Bell and Drum Tower, was built in the early Ming Dynasty. The ancient city is divided into a grid pattern with three miles and three, and nine miles and nine, based on the north-south central axis, with four streets, three gates, and twenty-three lanes. Kejia Alley, next to the North Gate Tower, is named after many Jinshi and Juren who came out. Walking into the Hu family courtyard in Kejia Alley, ‘three Jinshi in one family’ Ming and Qing Dynasty residential courtyards are also presented in front of you. Jinjiang Academy In Zhaojia Alley, it was built in the eighteenth year of the Qing Jiaqing period, and the existing lecture hall, Huiying Hall, and wing rooms. The lecture hall is a gable roof beam wood structure, with a Xumi seat corridor in front of the hall. Wuhou Temple is located in the old street in the north of the city, built in the Ming Jiaqing period, underwent two repairs in the Qing Dynasty, and has a history of more than five hundred years. Dongyue Temple was built in the Qing Dynasty by Zhou Mian, the town’s pacifier. The temple is laid out in a courtyard layout and is known for its colored relief sculptures.

Jingzhuang Temple, constructed during the Yongle reign of the Ming Dynasty, was built by the official Li Yi. For those visiting Huili, the Red Impression restaurant is a must-visit spot, renowned as evidenced by its prominent facade, which has been featured on official food programs. Upon entering, one is enveloped by a red ambiance, reflecting the legacy of the owner’s grandfather, a distinguished veteran who is commemorated with a display of his achievements. The restaurant’s decor is themed around revolutionary education, and it also features bookshelves where patrons can browse at leisure. The cuisine is distinctive; Huili is known as the ‘hometown of pomegranates,’ and it’s surprising to find pomegranate flowers on the menu, which are crunchy and flavorless on their own but complement other dishes well. The truffle steamed eggs are smooth and tender, a delightful dish. The restaurant offers excellent value for money and is bustling with activity. It’s advisable to arrive early.

Name: Red Impression Theme Restaurant
Address: 26 Chengxi Street
Average Cost per Person: 60

Mianning Yi Sea, a lesser-known scenic spot in Liangshan recommended by ‘China National Geography,’ offers a tranquil experience under the warm sunlight of the Daliang Mountains. The water is cool and refreshing, with few tourists. Known as ‘Wulesu Po’ in the Yi language, it is situated in Mianning County, Liangshan Yi Autonomous Prefecture, Sichuan Province, at an altitude of over 2000 meters. The air is crisp, and there’s no risk of altitude sickness. It is a freshwater lake formed by a debris flow fan from the early Holocene period, which developed over multiple phases and was later created by a fault basin due to earthquakes. The lake is not large, and one can walk around it in about an hour, playing in the crystal-clear waters. It is also the memorial site of General Liu Bocheng’s ‘Yi Sea Alliance,’ offering a chance to experience the charm of red culture.

[Travel Tips]
Transportation: It’s very convenient, with the scenic area just over ten minutes away from the highway exit, on well-paved roads.
Admission: 20
Dining: There is a small shop in the scenic area, and along the roadside, there are Yi ethnic streets selling roasted suckling pig and baked potatoes.
Accommodation: There are hotels within the scenic area ranging from 600-1000 per night. Camping is also allowed for a 50 fee, with the option to bring your own tent or rent one, and full barbecue equipment is provided.

Meigu Dading Nature Reserve offers breathtaking views after hours of winding mountain roads and off-roading. Located at an altitude of 4000 meters, it spans across Meigu County, Lebo County, and Leshan Mabian County. The reserve covers an area of over 50,000 hectares, with its main peak, Moro Wengjue, towering 943 meters above the summit of Mount Emei, reaching 4042 meters. Here, cattle and sheep graze in herds, horses run freely, and alpine meadows stretch as far as the eye can see. We run on the grasslands, dancing with the white clouds, filling our sleeves with the sound of the wind. The surroundings are sometimes shrouded in white, then suddenly become clear, as if we are passing through the clouds! Some Yi people still live here, relying on traditional farming and herding for their livelihood.
A forest ecosystem type nature reserve, it is a frequent haunt of wild giant pandas, and also home to more than 30 rare species of flora and fauna such as Sichuan golden snub-nosed monkeys, clouded leopards, black-necked cranes, Davidia involucrata, and Taxus chinensis. Descending from Dafengding, we stayed in Meigu County, located in the northeastern part of Liangshan Yi Autonomous Prefecture in Sichuan Province, where the Yi population accounts for over 98% of the total population, making it a typical Yi settlement and the region where Yi traditional culture is best preserved and unique. [Tourism Guide]√Address: Meigu Dafengding Nature Reserve√Opening Hours: Open all day√Duration: 2 hours√Note: Dafengding is located at the junction of Leshan Mabian and Liangshan Meigu, with two entrances for ascending the mountain. Currently, if driving is required, it is necessary to have a local guide or to contact the relevant departments in advance. Hidden Gem – Muli MonasteryAfter a long journey, we arrived at Muli, one of the only two Tibetan autonomous counties in the country. Some say Muli is the last pure land on earth. The American scholar Joseph Rock called it: ‘The sacred land of the Buddhist kingdom’, ‘God’s backyard’. Muli has high mountains and deep valleys with complex terrain. Along the winding mountain road, we went to see the Muli Monastery at an altitude of 3600 meters. It is built among overlapping mountains, surrounded by virgin forests, with the surging Litang River in front of the temple. The exquisite temple is rarely visited, with silence all around. The temple has a history of over 400 years since its construction, mainly built with earth and wood, showing Tang and Ming styles, with a Tibetan-style square fortress hall over 20 meters high connected to hundreds of living rooms for lamas and monks. The main building is magnificent, with intricate carvings and murals that are fascinating, and there are also rare dragons in the carvings in the Tibetan region. Inside the temple, there is a nearly 10-meter-tall statue of Maitreya Buddha. Circling the Buddha, there is a wall behind the Buddha, and one must bend down and crawl through a very narrow hole to complete the circle, bowing one’s head, letting go of arrogance, and humbly paying homage to all things. Address: Muli Monastery, Muli County, Liangshan, Sichuan Altitude: around 3600 meters, weak altitude sickness reaction: no ticket required Parking: The temple has a square, free parking. Shangri-La Lake – A Lake to RememberAfter crossing mountains and ridges, the scenery of one mountain and one water is more memorable. On the way to Muli, we passed by Shangri-La Lake, a plateau lake with floating patches of grasslands in the water, high saturation of blue-green, the sun is intense, the water waves are gentle, the wind is strong, as if hearing the whole world singing. Shangri-La Lake is also known as Cun Dong Haizi, with the most unique scenery of hundreds of floating grasslands in the lake. These floating islands are not fixed and change with the environment every day, turning into a golden yellow in autumn. On the shore, wild flowers are clustered, yaks are walking, and horses are running, worth a good visit. Navigation: Shangri-La Lake, Muli County, Liangshan, Sichuan Note: The sun on the plateau is very strong, be sure to pay attention to sun protection, and be careful when stepping on the grasslands.
Before heading to Lugu Lake, we first arrived at the Apple Manor located in Yanyuan County. Yanyuan apples are a specialty of Yanyuan County, Sichuan Province, and a product with a national geographical indication of China. Passing through the lush forests and vast apple orchards, apples hang heavy on the branches, so close that you can touch them just by rolling down the car window. The apples here are crisp, refreshing, juicy, sweet, and emit a pleasant aroma. The entire apple manor is situated in a plateau region at an altitude of 2600 meters, where the bright sunlight creates a unique taste for the fruit. Within the manor, there is a beautiful Berlin Lake, and by the lakeside stands the Berlin Academy, which is styled after the traditional Huizhou merchant residences, exuding an air of simplicity, elegance, and solemnity, making it an ideal rest stop on the way to Lugu Lake. [Sightseeing Guide] Address: Group 4, Huangshagou Village, Yanjing Street, Yanyuan County, Liangshan Yi Autonomous Prefecture, Sichuan Province. Transportation: Ample parking within the manor, accurate navigation. Facilities: There are restaurants, apple hotels, rooftop gardens, old houses converted into coffee shops, and the ‘Apple Fitness Lakeside Path’ which is 2.1km long, with apple-themed children’s playgrounds, pet parks, and poplar forest camping sites along the way. The beauty of Lugu Lake in Sichuan version surpasses the sky. Wandering by Lugu Lake until nightfall, the whole heart is healed. Without needing to go to Dali, Yanyuan County in Liangshan, Sichuan shares the entire lake with Yunnan, where the clear lake water represents the gentle boundary between Sichuan and Yunnan. The alternating monsoons bring rich changes to the clouds on the plateau; the clouds not only float in the sky but also drift in the water. The vast grass sea surges into summer, and the Mosuo people row their boats through the green wetlands. At sunset, the afterglow of the sun covers the lake surface, illuminating the world like stars. [Sightseeing Guide] √ Name: Lugu Lake √ Address: Between Yanyuan County, Liangshan Yi Autonomous Prefecture, Sichuan Province, and Ninglang Yi Autonomous County, Lijiang City, Yunnan Province. √ Transportation: Park and buy tickets at the Sichuan entrance of Lugu Lake, then drive in. √ Admission: 70 RMB/person √ Time: 8:00-18:00 √ Must-visit spots at Lugu Lake Grass Sea Wetland turns a lush green in spring and a rich withered yellow in autumn. In spring and summer, you can see the sea grass flowers on the lake surface. Marriage Bridge spans the grass sea, and those who have been to the Mosuo area would tread on the old wooden bridge for marriage. There is a viewing platform to the south of the bridge, offering a panoramic view of the grass sea and the marriage bridge. After crossing the marriage bridge, you will encounter a market selling local specialties and ethnic costumes at very affordable prices, with room for bargaining. Goddess Bay is surrounded by mountains with lake views resembling a small Switzerland. Nearby, the Bird Perch Summit offers a viewing point to overlook the lake and mountains. At sunset, the Lover’s Beach has a wide and calm water surface, with the sea and sky merging into one, and the evening glow falling into the water. Staying overnight at the Mosuo home, you can enjoy dinner with fish from Lugu Lake and taste the ‘Water Lily’, a leafy aquatic plant. Most of the water lilies have wilted by this season, but fortunately, you can still taste them and leave a memory.
In the evening, I checked into a hotel called Mosuo Homestay. According to the driver, it is the best hotel in the area, but I couldn’t find more information about the hotel online. The fish in Lugu Lake are known for their water lilies. Each guest room is a standalone building with complete amenities, and the surroundings are very quiet. Compared to the city, the value for money here is exceptional. A morning stroll will take you to Lugu Lake. Highly recommended.

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