Chongzuo Guangxi: Earthly Fairyland

A year ago, a high-speed train departed from Chongzuo South Station. At that time, the passengers probably did not realize that this journey signified a reduction in travel time from Nanning to Chongzuo, from the original 2 hours and 36 minutes to just 52 minutes. Since then, Chongzuo has officially been incorporated into Nanning’s ‘1-hour living circle,’ and the idyllic beauty of Chongzuo can no longer be hidden. However, when mentioning Guangxi, people often first think of Guilin Yangshuo or Nanning, and few are familiar with Chongzuo. I have an unexpected fondness for this city, not only for its long history but also for its superior geographical location. Most importantly, Chongzuo is beautiful and lively, gentle yet grand, possessing an elegance beyond the mundane world, and an enchanting poetic charm that is infinitely captivating. As time goes by and the years change, this land deeply bears the marks of time. I even feel that Chongzuo is in no way inferior to Guilin Yangshuo, and with fewer people, one can enjoy a peaceful solitude and slow down to appreciate the scenery. Chongzuo is not a large city, but it has many beautiful and interesting places to visit, such as the Detian Waterfall I once introduced, and the world cultural heritage of Huashan Rock Paintings, among others. Today, I will take you to a lesser-known scenic spot in Chongzuo and also a fairyland described by Xu Xiake—Dongna Yuwan. At first glance, Dongna Yuwan seems a bit of a tongue-twister, but in reality, it carries a profound meaning. ‘Dong’ refers to a landscape of mountains and waters, ‘na’ to fertile fields, ‘yu’ to scattered islands, and ‘wan’ to river bays and boat crossings. These four characters alone can summarize the characteristics of Dongna Yuwan, where islands are scattered among beautiful mountains and waters, and a group of contented people live, guarding their fertile fields. Cruising among them in a small boat, every scene you see is a fairyland. The pure and beautiful karst landscape, the culture of the local chieftains, the borderlands, and the Zhuang ethnic culture… After appreciating these, the name Dongna Yuwan suddenly feels poetic. A scenic area that brings together almost all beautiful things. Dongna Yuwan is located in Anping Village, Leiping Town, Daxin County, Chongzuo City, Guangxi, less than 20 kilometers from the highway exit, making it very convenient to travel to. This scenic area has been upgraded and transformed based on the original Anping Xianer River scenic area. The river flows through here, surrounded by a fairy-like atmosphere, forming a picture on its own, hence the reputation of the Xianer River. Because it is so beautiful, many TV dramas have shot scenes here, such as the popular fairy tale drama ‘The Journey of Flower,’ which has many scenes filmed in Anping Xianer River, including Longbi Beach Waterfall, Peach Blossom Island, Penglai Fairy Island, and so on. The beautiful scenery on the screen is just a small part, yet it is already breathtakingly beautiful. To truly experience Dongna Yuwan, one must come in person.
As one steps onto the riverbank, it feels as if they have stumbled upon a fairyland on earth, entering a dream of Xu Xiake. Surrounded by mountains, the water surface seems to be enveloped in a light mist. The ‘Hereditary Tusi’s Back Garden’ Po Huang Island, Longbi Beach Waterfall, the water illusion, and the green trees and bamboos along the riverbank form a series of breathtaking landscape scrolls that are too beautiful to look away from. Visitors can choose to explore Dongna Yu Bay by boat, cycling, or hiking through the wetlands. My most recommended method is by boat, which allows for a leisurely tour of the beautiful scenery of Anping Xian River, with a unique perspective from the river. Accompanied by the murmuring water, the sound of water and birds blend together. Below, the water ripples gently, the scenery is as poetic as a painting, making one reluctant to blink. Along the way, one will pass by attractions such as the Octagonal Bridge, the Water Forest, the Suspension Bridge, the Empress Holding the Crown Prince Mountain, Longbi Beach Waterfall, Tusi Wharf, Tusi Government Office, City God Temple, Huang Guang Bridge, and Huixian Rock, as well as more than ten islands of various styles and shapes. The largest island, called ‘Po Huang Island,’ spans over two hundred acres. If you purchase a boat ticket, you will embark from Tusi Wharf, passing through the water illusion, to Guantian Wharf; if you buy a package ticket, you will circle around Po Huang Island before arriving at Guantian Wharf. Boarding the boat from Tusi Wharf, you will unveil the mystery of Anping Xian River along the riverbank scenery, with ‘Gui Water Strong Mountains’ in sight. The classic ‘Dongna Yu Bay’ eight scenes, step by step, seem to travel through time, touring with Xu Xiake. The boat cuts through the jade-like water, creating ripples. The ripples from the boat’s stern spread to both banks, and the tree shadows on the river surface break with the ripples, making it difficult to distinguish which is the real world for a moment. This bridge is said to have appeared in ‘The Journey of Flower,’ do you recognize it? The most wonderful part is when the boat reaches the water illusion, where the murmuring water floats layers of mist, as if seeing Xu Xiake’s travels and experiences in Anping hundreds of years ago. It is unclear how this scene was formed, but it is so special that ‘The Journey of Flower’ chose to film here. Standing in the center of the mist, it feels like being in a fairyland. This beautiful scenery can be seen all day, so do not miss it! Sometimes the river is wide, with the distant mountains and grasslands being clear and blurred, complementing each other. Sometimes there are wooden houses by the river, with Zhuang girls playing music, and the sound of the instrument travels very far. Walking along the waterway, stopping and watching the scenery, you will arrive at Guantian Wharf just in time to catch a Zhuang-style performance. As soon as the boat docks, Tusi in ethnic costumes will be waiting with ‘Lang Bao’ to welcome distant guests. They will warmly offer a bowl of welcome wine. Perhaps with a bit of intoxication, everything seems more beautiful? In any case, this bowl of wine must be consumed.

Upon disembarking, one can witness the natural stone forests and heavenly bonsai, as dreamlike as they are surreal. It is often said that ‘every stone in the stone forest is extraordinary, as if crafted by divine hands.’ Gazing at the stone forest before you, with its typical karst topography, where peculiar peaks compete for beauty and bizarre rocks vie for strangeness, it is nearly impossible to tear your eyes away. The wonder of the stone forest lies in its ability to stir your boundless imagination. As you closely observe these rugged stones, you involuntarily begin to fabricate stories within them. Of course, this place is also an excellent spot for photography. Ascending along the steps, the scenery changes with every step. At the peak, as you look up towards the horizon, the sky is as blue as if washed by water, with the surrounding vegetation displaying various shades of green, and the mountain breeze carries the scent of plants and herbs. Another location I consider to be absolutely beautiful is the Longbi Beach Waterfalls. Longbi Beach is a group of waterfalls distributed in a ‘heart’ shape, with rapid water flow resembling white silk, standing out particularly in the lush valley and making the river water appear especially clear and green. To appreciate the Longbi Beach Waterfalls, the best vantage point is the uneven Xia Inn Path. As you meander upwards along the bluestone path, the waterfalls, ancient pavilions, and forests behind you… all serve as excellent backdrops, and every casual snapshot turns into a grand picture. From a distance, the waterfalls resemble white dragons, passing through the stone forest and rushing into the clear water, with hanging springs and splashing water droplets, creating a series of splashes. As a boat sails through, it feels as if one is gliding through a painting. Some say that the landscapes of Guangxi are astonishing, while the landscapes of Dongna Yuwan are poetic and romantic. Not as grand and majestic, but with more human touch and warmth. How wonderful, Dongna Yuwan. Travel guide address: Anping Village, Leiping Town, Daxin County, Chongzuo City, Guangxi Zhuang Autonomous Region. Ticket price: Dongna Yuwan Anping Xianhe Scenic Area boat ticket 160 yuan; Dongna Yuwan full course package ticket 258 yuan. Opening hours: 8:00-17:10.

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