Approach: Food writers visited these places: Shanghai published on 2020-07-08 13:11 [Home] The pandemic has changed many people’s work and life, but it has not significantly affected creators, as most of their time is spent at home, unless there is official business that requires going out. My ideal home should be: a CBD office, a family vacation spot, a retreat, a gathering place for friends, a source of inspiration, and a museum of personal quirks… Post-pandemic, home is a space that can accommodate all my identities, tolerating my most private personality splits. For creators, the most important thing is to have a place that can quietly accommodate all ‘personalities’, as we cannot follow the rules. The ‘personality’ of home is more complex than the hundred Hamlets in a hundred people’s hearts. I chose the profession of ‘eating’ and ‘writing about eating’, which seems easy to maintain, but often the dining arrangements are too well-organized, causing a passive loss of ‘choice’. Cooking at home allows me to regain functionality and experience the rare joy of freedom. If my greed is understood, then ideally, every corner of the home would be delicious, even the bookshelf would be a library where one can randomly draw flavors. As for the kitchen and household appliances, they should be functional, quirky, and versatile… The same applies to people living normal lives; ‘comfort and freedom’ need to be considered in every aspect. Home is a collection of diverse ‘selves’. The diverse ‘self’ and the personalized gourmet lifestyle Recently, I have been studying ancient European cookbooks and have made the Italian national quick bread, Focaccia. The word Focaccia is derived from the Latin word ‘focus’, meaning ‘center’ or ‘hearth’, as hearths were often built in the center of a residence. It is an ancient European bread and a simple high-temperature, fast-baking bread. I used a combination of heavy oils, olive oil, and flaxseed oil, which I wrote about in my 2016 book ‘Vegetable Oil Atlas’. High-temperature baking is actually a great way to retain nutrients, but unfortunately, most ovens heat up slowly and even malfunction at high temperatures. The original focaccia bread recipe may have originated from the ancient Italian nation Etruscans or ancient Greece. People usually flavor it with olive oil and herbs, sometimes topping the bread with cheese, meat, or various vegetables. Focaccia bread is actually the ancestor of pizza, back then baked in wood-fired ovens that could reach several hundred degrees Celsius. I first realized the importance of this function when making scorched cheese, otherwise, it’s impossible to have a molten inside and a fully cooked outside! So far, I only know that ASKO can meet this requirement, with a high-temperature oven capable of reaching up to 275 degrees Celsius.
The biggest advantage of this oven is that there is no chemical residue in the cleaning method. It comes with a high-temperature pyrolysis automatic cleaning program that can heat up to 465 degrees Celsius and burn all food residues to ashes. The ashes left after pyrolysis are very easy to remove. However, not all foods need to be ‘burned to a crisp’. For beginners, the anti-burn accident prevention function is extremely useful! For this reason, I specifically compared the differences between the ASKO microwave oven and ordinary ovens. The most important thing lies in the inverter system of the ASKO microwave oven. ASKO inverter system: Works continuously, uses lower power – energy saving. Lower microwave amplitude, more uniform. Achieves perfect cooking effect, and food will not be over-baked. Traditional system: Works at full power, maximum power or 0, without intermediate power levels. Food is easily over-baked because there is only one maximum power. Works intermittently and cannot accurately reach the set power. There is too much need for non-burnt bread. In these few days, I used a liquid starter again and made Italian Ciabatta bread and Panettone bread respectively. Both are very traditional. The ancient Egyptians started baking bread 3000 years ago, but they didn’t know that modern people don’t like eating a lot of the same bread at one time. It’s best to have multiple different flavors at one time. Of course, a simple and crude earthen oven won’t do, but how can an ordinary household oven bake different breads separately at one time?! What gives me a headache is that the fermentation time, baking temperature, and duration of each type of bread are different. Ciabatta is one of the representative breads in Italy. The baking time is relatively fast, at 220 degrees – 200 degrees for about 30 minutes. The freshly baked shape is very much like a slipper. Made with a ‘liquid starter’ that has undergone long-term low-temperature fermentation, the bread has shiny holes of different sizes in its texture. The crispy outside and soft inside texture becomes more fragrant the more you chew it. I really have too many reasons to eat it. The traditional way to eat it is to dip it in Italian vinaigrette. Europeans also often make sandwiches. My American friend shared kalamata olive ciabatta with me. When I have better pickled black olives, I will definitely try it. Panettone is eaten at Christmas. My liquid starter is very soft. When poet Zhao Ye ate it, he said, ‘At this moment when I eat this cake, it’s just right.’ Bake in the oven at 160 degrees up and down for 30 minutes. For these two types of bread, I have to turn on the oven twice. In the meantime, I also have to ensure that the other waiting bread does not over-ferment. It’s too difficult. So, for just an oven, I have many excessive requirements. It would be best if it can realize the functions of a traditional multifunctional oven while also meeting the requirements of high-temperature pyrolysis, steam baking, and microwave baking.
Anyway, at least I can simultaneously complete fermentation and baking of different breads, so no one’s time or taste is delayed! If the temperature control is strict, it can also be used as a fermentation box. As a result, ASKO has achieved this. I have recommended many good things from ASKO. Since 1918, ASKO has become a brand with a century-long history, and the history of manufacturing and selling home appliances is nearly 70 years. In 1918, Aukusti Asko-Avonius (1887-1965), relying on the industrialized concept learned in Sweden, established the ASKO furniture factory in Finland. There are countless reasons to recommend ASKO. It can achieve simultaneous baking of five layers. Then, the height of 60cm/45cm allows me not to worry about the bread being too tall and getting excessive heat on the upper layer. The segmented baking function is suitable for my light cheese that needs to be baked first and then colored. In case there aren’t enough variations in dishes, there are hundreds of automatic program recipes built in. The steam-bake oven has a huge capacity and there is no conflict with the baking function. Therefore, the temperature control is accurate to 1 degree. I no longer need to complain about the inaccurate temperature control like many domestic brands. The 1.3-liter water tank can meet 80 minutes of full steam cooking. I can steam a whole three-pound fish. The microwave-oven combo also has a large capacity of 50 liters and can use microwave and oven functions simultaneously, extremely free! Luxurious life is not necessarily expensive, but it must be ‘alive’! The essence of creation is to regard everything as ‘alive’. Once I chatted with my friend Liu Zhanyun. He is a famous photographer, while I am a photography novice. I carefully observed his almost crazy obsession with details when taking pictures. He is waiting. He waits for the light, the mood, and the occurrence of things. He particularly values the trusting relationship with the photographed subject. This is similar to the feeling in the kitchen. When the temperature, humidity, and mood are right, and the dough is kneaded just right at this time, it feels natural. When the inspiration for writing arrives and the inner state is calm enough, one can write in one go. There are too many moments to wait in daily life. At home, to live a truly luxurious life, many things need to be customized, and it is best if there is no need to wait. For example, I can’t live without coffee. At home, I either stroll around the stove holding a coffee cup or read and write next to the coffee cup. So I need to drink different kinds of coffee every day. ASKO’s built-in coffee machine has eight coffee options and can make two cups of coffee at a time, so there is no need to worry when guests come to play. The key is that there is also a professional conical grinder with 13 grinding levels to maximize the satisfaction of personalized taste needs. For me, a lazy person, the fingerprints on the gas stove are really annoying. The EuroKera microcrystalline glass stove panel has a fingerprint-proof stainless steel panel.
Equipped with an independent timer and automatic cooking, it boasts a powerful heat that can cook hot tofu even for the most impatient. Without a dishwasher, especially during the pandemic when domestic helpers are unavailable, I would have been utterly distraught. The ASKO dishwasher has a larger capacity than any other brand, making it the world’s largest and most flexible dishwasher, capable of accommodating up to 17 sets of standard Western dinnerware. It features an ultra-fine, dishwasher-safe filter! Last week, I had the honor of attending the ASKO Luxury Living Private Event as a culinary experience officer, where three top luxury home design masters discussed ‘The Art of Living’, with the essence of life extending beyond the plate. While listening to their insights, I also reminisced about discussing lifestyles with the editorial team of AD. All the food served that day was prepared using ASKO appliances, which inspired me to try at home. Bread / BREAD: German Style Whole Wheat Bread with Butter and Cheese. Soup / SOUP: French Classic Chicken Mushroom Soup. Appetizer / APPETIZER: Muslim Crystal Shrimp Salad. Main Course / MAIN: Imported Truffle Naked Eye Steak with Secret French Distilled Red Wine Sauce. Entrée / ENTREE: Fragrant Baked Boston Lobster with Vegetables. Dessert / DESSERT: Plum Sauce Lime Mousse Pie with Fruits. At the dinner that night, I had the pleasure of meeting three brilliant designers who, like me, are fans of ASKO and have a heart that is very ‘particular’ about life. ‘Oriental Collection Style’ – Botta Lai, who has won the 2019 German IF and Italian A’DESIGN Gold Design Awards and was also the most favored Chinese designer by Hurun Report in 2018. Mr. Lai Jian’an, the director of Shiyuan International Engineering Design from Taiwan, is known in the industry for designing luxury homes, but his works often do not show the usual sense of ‘luxury’. Instead, they are filled with a warm oriental aesthetic atmosphere. By examining master collections, he deeply perceives human scale and life details, integrating them into the ‘home’ he designs, making each home a unique work of art.
For designer Lai Jian’an, an extravagant home must embody ‘sunlight, air, life, and art.’ I am also fond of the work of Italian designer Stefano Piontini, whose presentations are filled with childlike expressions and an unbounded creativity. Stefano Piontini graduated with a master’s degree in architecture from Politecnico di Milano in 2011. During his studies, he was involved in two significant architectural innovation projects in Milan: Residenze Corso Como and Bosco Verticale. In 2017, with the support of the Italian Consulate General in Shanghai, he established the ‘China Italian Architects and Designers Alliance.’ In 2019, he was recognized as one of the 100 most influential architectural design elites in China by AD Magazine for his leading ‘Golden Baby School and Office’ project, which was also voted the most popular project in its category. A designer I particularly admire is Godfrey Lam, whose walk-in closet resembles a boutique. He mentioned that the women in his family enjoy this atmosphere, with the top being the bottom of his home’s swimming pool, allowing them to enjoy the view and keep an eye on the children while selecting clothes. Studio Glam was founded in 2017 by designers Godfrey Lam and Bryce Cai, with the philosophy that ‘life needs a touch of humor.’ As the creative director of the studio, Godfrey Lam has received education in Hong Kong, the UK, Canada, and the United States, and majored in architectural design at Columbia University in New York. Throughout his career, Godfrey has never followed trends, consistently surprising the design community with his personalized original designs and bold ideas. Over 20 years of work in the United States, he has served renowned global firms such as I.M. Pei, Rockwell Group, and HOK Asia Pacific. He has participated in various projects from North America to Asia, including the 2009 Oscar award stage, President Trump’s New York hotel, and the restaurants of the world’s second-ranked Michelin chef Alain Ducasse in New York and Washington. Godfrey and Bryce’s sensitivity and finesse with color, materials, and lighting are dramatically applied in their designs, creating an exclusive ‘stage of life’ for their clients. Observing their shared experiences, even the dishes at dinner parties come to life with vivid colors and aromas.
We all need to make timely appearances in formal settings, and managing our attire is indeed a taxing task. In private conversations, Godfrey personally endorsed the ASKO washer, which stands out as the only household drum washing machine in the world to use a four-shock absorption support structure. The entire series of washers is equipped with high-end configurations, designed for a lifespan of over 20 years, and features an integrated washing and drying machine with numerous advantages. In 1950, ASKO’s first all-metal horizontal drum washing machine was born in Sweden and entered industrial production. Stainless steel inner and outer barrels, cast iron supports, reversible motors, the ability to add hot and cold water, and spin-drying functions are structural and functional features that have been carried forward to this day. It is also the only household drum washing machine in the world to eliminate the design of a thick door seal rubber ring. The washing machine door is directly mounted on the drum unit, thus avoiding the use of a thick rubber door seal ring (the rubber door seal ring is structurally complex, prone to dirt accumulation, and over time can age, discolor, and even crack, leading to water leakage). For someone like me who feels uncomfortable during the rainy season, this feature is equally appealing. The drying function might be due to the country of origin being a Nordic nation, considering the long winter season and the popularity of snow and ice sports. Often, clothing is not soiled and does not require washing, but the melting of snow and ice leaves the clothes damp, affecting comfort. This has led to the creation of the drying cabinet. Drying cabinets are installed in homes, schools, and some public places for quick drying of clothes. Remarkably, it is suitable for all types of clothing: sportswear, outdoor wear, workwear, cashmere, leather, silk, shirts, velvet, satin, sports shoes, boots, rain boots, offering the coveted options of ‘hot air drying, normal temperature, low temperature, and cold air drying’ to meet the drying requirements of different fabrics. The interior space is flexible, unfolding to the equivalent of a 16-meter-long clothesline. The drying cabinet also allows for hanging, so many clothes come out naturally straight, eliminating the need for ironing. These unbeatable features happen to be perfect for the humid weather of the south! I am someone who is particularly contradictory, feeling restless when idle and aching when busy. Returning home is the cure, especially for the ‘disease’ caused by attention to detail. If every detail of the home is to one’s liking, there is no need for vigilance and tension. Even the most fastidious geniuses and madmen would not mind. When asked what makes a home comfortable, I would say: Home is the only place in the world that conceals human shortcomings and failures while also harboring sweet love. —— Bernard Shaw. Food Bless You! Consultant for the China International Food Expo, Producer of ‘The God-like Dining Table’.
