Jishou Hunan Ancient Villages Serene Life

On my third trip to Hunan, I unexpectedly found myself in Jishou City, a place whose name I had never heard before. Upon arrival, I discovered that amidst the rolling mountains, numerous Miao ethnic villages lay hidden, their quaint serenity offering a sense of comfort from the body to the soul, akin to a paradise on earth. If given the chance, a deep exploration of Jishou is truly warranted. Here, there exists a scenic rural road, its dividing lines and even the guardrails painted in vibrant colors. Along this route, one can fully appreciate the beauty of Jishou’s countryside.
1. Zhonghuang Village is located in Jishou City, Xiangxi Tujia and Miao Autonomous Prefecture, Hunan Province, approximately a 30-minute drive from the city center. It is an ancient Miao village named Zhonghuang, which originally meant ‘a place of auspiciousness’ in the Miao language, resonating with the ‘auspicious capital’ implied by the name of Jishou City. Established during the Qing Dynasty, it was once a large Yang family village with ‘five ridges, seven villages, and eight hundred households’. However, due to wars, the village was destroyed. Survivors, with tears and blood, rebuilt their homes, and through generations of growth, it has become what it is today. Surrounded by continuous mountains and meandering rivers, the chaos has become a history entwined with webs, and the ancient village exudes peace and tranquility. More than 50 ancient villages are still preserved here, attracting many tourists who wish to explore this ancient village with a history of several hundred years. Welcoming wine is offered from the village gate, the Buddha with a big head dances, and villagers play the trumpet. This warm hospitality is very appealing to us, who live in reinforced concrete buildings all year round, and feels very fresh. The women in the village gather together, some embroidering with needles and threads, some spinning with spinning wheels, and some operating weaving machines… Zhonghuang Village still retains the ancient tradition of Miao embroidery. Double needle lock embroidery, wrinkle embroidery, braid embroidery, broken yarn embroidery, silk floss applique embroidery, tin embroidery… Using embroidery techniques known only to them, they embroider a life of auspiciousness and happiness. The women do embroidery work on weekdays, which tourists like very much and will buy some of their embroidered products to take back. As long as you come to Zhonghuang Village, there are many opportunities to appreciate the ancient traditions of the village. It is said that the monkey drum is also a major feature of the village.

2. About a 10-minute drive from Zhonghuang Village is Yanke Village. As the name suggests, Yanke Village is abundant in stones and is built at the foot of a mountain. What is more eye-catching here is a sea of flowers, yellow, red… a vast expanse, and you can smell its fragrance from afar. It’s lilies. There is a clear river, with ducks playing happily inside, and some people fishing in the river.
On one side of the river lies farmland, while on the other, a sea of flowers stretches for several kilometers, enriching the hues of Jishou’s summer. In Yanke Village, blossoms bloom amidst the rocks. It is said that there are over 300 varieties of lilies here. Visitors can immerse themselves in the lily fields, admiring the colorful blooms up close, and indulging in their enchanting fragrance. The entrance fee is reasonably priced at around 20 yuan. If you wish to purchase some flowers to take home, that is also an option.

Upon arriving at Pingnian Village, we heard that there was no road here originally. Pingnian was truly a ‘poor’ village. However, since the construction of the most beautiful rural tourism route, the number of visitors to the village has increased, bringing income to the villagers as well. Pingnian Village has a small stream filled with pebbles, and the cheerful stream always sings a pleasant tune. In fact, on the way to the village, it is common to see villagers with their children catching fish in the stream, making one itch to take off their shoes and splash around barefoot in the shallow waters. This place is the home of Yang Yuebin, a military general who resisted France and reclaimed Taiwan in the late Qing Dynasty, and Long Yingtang, the first generation of Miao drum kings in the early years of the People’s Republic of China. Although Yang Yuebin may not be well-known, he was a commander of the late Qing Xiang Army’s naval forces, who had reclaimed the Taiping Army and made significant contributions in aiding Taiwan. Although we didn’t have time to explore the village thoroughly, we enjoyed delicious pickles here. The sweet and crunchy pickled radishes, the refreshingly crisp pickled cucumbers, and other unnamed pickles… I still regret not buying some to take home.

Our fourth stop was Hangtuo Village, located in Jishou City’s Jilve Township, about 18 kilometers from the urban area of Jishou. ‘Hangtuo’ is a Miao term, where ‘hang’ means mountain pass and ‘tuo’ means forest. The mountain pass is shaded by trees, and tea plants fill the forest, hence the name ‘Hangtuo’. Visiting Hangtuo Village is quite a test for a driver’s skills, as it is a village built on a mountaintop, known as ‘Cloud Hangtuo’. The mountain road is well-constructed, smooth and polished, but with numerous twists and turns, including several near 360-degree bends, which made us exclaim several times from the car. The driver, however, remained calm, making us feel a bit embarrassed for being overly cautious. Hangtuo Village is known for its tea production, with about 2,000 acres of tea gardens scattered throughout the mountains. This is a village built amidst the tea forest, divided into two natural villages: Upper and Lower Hangtuo. Upper Hangtuo has 80 households with over 300 people, while Lower Hangtuo has 143 households with over 500 people. Wandering around the village, one can see stacks of wood in front of every household, neatly arranged. It is said that the villagers here have a habit of collecting firewood, a rather amusing hobby. Many tourists find it strange and often take selfies leaning against these stacks of wood, enjoying themselves immensely.
Hongtuo Village is not only tidy but also adorned with various flowers scattered throughout. There is even a farmhouse with a strong artistic atmosphere within the village. Dining and tea drinking in such an environment offers a unique charm. The retro stilted buildings with their orderly eaves, villagers resting on the steps, and the tranquil sceneries make one feel that this is the true essence of rural life. A sense of peace is palpable. 5. Hongping Village, located in Jishou City’s Jilü Township, is about 10 kilometers away from the city center. Originally named ‘Rougong,’ which means ‘Red Rock’ in the Miao language, the village got its current name due to a red rock at the bottom of the small river in front of the village, resembling a sleeping water buffalo. The village features a play area perfect for families with children, including an inflatable castle, pure white sand, and a swinging bridge over the river… often enticing children to linger. Several tents have been set up along the riverbank, and it’s common for people to invite friends to relax here. Swinging on swings, breathing in the fresh air of the fields, and listening to the singing of the brook are some of the activities enjoyed. When it’s mealtime, renting a wood-fired stove and starting the cooking smoke is an experience of true pastoral life. This lifestyle is incredibly appealing to city dwellers. Although my contact with Jishou has been brief, I have a great interest in this most beautiful rural road. This road connects tourists with villagers, serving as a path to prosperity for the villagers, a route to their happy life, and a way for tourists to relax and experience a paradise on earth. Travel tips: Suitable for self-driving tour sequence: Zhonghuang Village – Yanke Village – Pingnian Village – Hongtuo Village – Hongping Village.

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