Duration: 4 days Time: November Cost per person: 4000 yuan Travel companions: Solo Travel style: Self-drive, cultural, free travel, bohemian Author visited these places: The Bund, Huangpu River, Lujiazui, Shanghai Shikumen, Suzhou River, Waibaidu Bridge, Chen Yi Square, Oriental Pearl Tower, Jin Mao Building, International Convention Center, Nanjing Road Pedestrian Street, Shanghai Film Park, Changfeng Park, Chongming Island, Shanghai Yangtze River Bridge, Thames Town, Zhongshuge. Published on 2019-12-26 13:57 Preface: First time in Shanghai for a business trip, I finished my work ahead of schedule and arranged to meet an old friend for a catch-up, taking the opportunity to explore the enchanting city of Shanghai. Unfortunately, she was about to fly to South Korea, otherwise she could have shown me around this ‘magic’ city properly. To make up for it, she let me borrow her new Tiguan L to accompany me on a stroll through the city. Hello, Magic City! I want to get to know you. Hey, welcome to Shanghai, please fasten your seatbelt, as our journey over the next few days will be accompanied by me. Are you ready? The dazzling night lights of Shanghai, standing on the Bund, looking at the Pudong financial center across the Huangpu River, and then looking back at the Western architecture group on Puxi, standing in the middle gives a feeling of traversing the past and the future. When you think of old Shanghai, what comes to mind? Is it the old records in the phonograph or the rickshaws, Shikumen? Here you can fulfill your dream of climbing buildings in Shanghai, summon cats, and even capture the pink sky city of Monument Valley. Escape from the cold steel forest of Shanghai and head to the end of the world on the highway of the country’s third largest island, embracing nature and releasing yourself. There is a small town here, mainly characterized by European style and architecture, as if walking on the streets of England. Feel the exotic British style small town. The ‘skyscraper dream’ of old Shanghai – Shanghai Hotel, on the Suzhou River, by the Huangpu River, there is an old building with a bronze color, which is Shanghai Hotel (formerly Broadway Mansion), just one road away from the Waibaidu Bridge! There is a description of it: Shanghai Hotel overlooks the Suzhou River, quietly watching the Huangpu River. It is the Broadway Mansion that was built in 1934, bearing the ‘skyscraper dream’ of old Shanghai and witnessing that precious golden age. The building was built by British merchants and has received hundreds of heads of state and government leaders from all over the world in its more than 80 years of operation history. Half a century has passed, and now Shanghai Hotel has absorbed the vicissitudes of history into its own essence, slowly settling down! Push open the heavy door of Shanghai Hotel and start a journey through the modern times of old Shanghai! The hotel lobby is not large, and the front desk is in the left corner when you enter, which also has a sense of the times.
The hotel lobby is adorned with photo walls on both sides, showcasing the city’s history and cultural depth. At the front of the lobby stands a piano that was sent from the UK shortly after the completion of the building, a treasure of the Shanghai Mansion. The entire hotel has a nostalgic and retro style, and the rooms are no exception. The river view rooms face the core area of the Bund, and although the rooms are not large and the decoration is not overly luxurious, they exude a strong sense of history! This, in turn, gives them their own unique charm, and the rooms are furnished with old cabinets that are as old as the building itself. Shanghai, the city that never sleeps, attracts people not only with its inherent magic, modernity, and fashion but also with its historical aura and retro feel, which are unparalleled by other cities. When visiting Shanghai, one must go to the Bund. The Bund is a must-see place for tourists in Shanghai, but many people do not know about the century-old steel structure bridge at the northern end of the Bund, located on Suzhou River. It is the intersection of the Huangpu River and Suzhou River, the starting point of the former British Concession – the Garden Bridge. Its steel structure was completed in 1908 and is now 110 years old. From the beginning, it allowed free passage for vehicles and pedestrians, hence the name Garden Bridge (its predecessor, the ‘Wells Bridge’, was a wooden bridge). This magical steel structure bridge has stood the test of time and still stands majestically, witnessing the rise and rapid development of Shanghai over more than a hundred years. Regardless of the storms that Shanghai has faced, it remains a steadfast guardian and observer. It connects not only the banks of the rivers but also the past and future of Shanghai! The Garden Bridge is also recognized in many old Shanghai movies and television shows, with many scenes of old Shanghai couples in love and spy exchanges taking place on the bridge. The most memorable scene is when Yi Ping jumps off the bridge in ‘Romance in the Rain’. When I first stepped onto the Garden Bridge, there were also film and television crews filming here. However, I still prefer the Garden Bridge at night, with its rich lighting on the bridge that alternates between red, yellow, blue, orange, and white, dressing the bridge in a very eye-catching color during the night! The Garden Bridge at night, with the Lujiazui Financial Center on the opposite bank, offers a stunning view, which is why many people choose to take wedding photos and portraits here! Following the Garden Bridge leads you past the Monument to the People’s Heroes, Chen Yi Square, and to the main area of the Bund. Along the Huangpu River, you can face the Lujiazui Financial Center on the other side of the river, and looking back, you see the Western-style architecture cluster of Puxi, giving a feeling of traveling through time and space.
The old and new buildings on both sides of the Huangpu River and the stunning scenery of the Bund are always the most symbolic business card of Shanghai. The memory of Shanghai begins here. The Bund is also known as Waitan on the Huangpu River. Since 1844, this area along the Bund has been divided into the British concession. It is also the starting point of the old Shanghai concession area and the entire modern city of Shanghai. The Bund can be said to be the epitome of Shanghai. The international architecture complex on Puxi, also known as Shiliyangchang, symbolizes the prosperous Shanghai-style culture. Nearly 20 magnificent century-old classical buildings lined up are very spectacular and represent the past of Shanghai. The skyscraper group in Lujiazui, Pudong: The Oriental Pearl Tower, Jinmao Tower, Shanghai International Convention Center and others form the most beautiful skyline and light up the night of Shanghai at night, representing the modernity and future of Shanghai. Pudong and Puxi face each other across the river. Such a Bund that combines the old and the new is the epitome of Shanghai. Walking in along the Bund is Nanjing Road Pedestrian Street. Even if you don’t go on a shopping spree when you come to Shanghai, you should still take a stroll and enjoy the scenery of this pedestrian street, which is known as the first street in China. At the street corner, you can see a dark red marble screen with six big characters ‘Nanjing Road Pedestrian Street’ written on it, which was inscribed by President Jiang Zemin. This road has a history of more than 100 years. Its predecessor was ‘Park Lane’. In 1865, it was officially named Nanjing Road. These buildings in the photos all have a history of more than 100 years. They have gone through vicissitudes of life and witnessed the prosperity of Shanghai. They are still playing their roles up to now! The Overseas Chinese Mansion has witnessed an important historical period of China’s information age. Because China’s first paging station, Guomai Station, was established here. People of parents’ generation would know that ‘Motorola pager, transmitting information anytime and anywhere’ started here. Wing On Department Store is a fashion store in Shanghai and the originator of China’s department store industry. Time travel! 1192 Alley Shanghai Retro Style Street. I have always wanted to find the marks of old Shanghai. Although there are many small streets and alleys in Shanghai that have the flavor of old Shanghai, for a tourist, of course, the Shanghai Film Park is also a good place. But unfortunately, the weather suddenly changed and it started to rain. The winter in Shanghai when it rains is extremely cold. The clothes brought from Guangzhou are not enough to keep out the cold. So a friend recommended a niche old Shanghai style street – 1192 Alley Shanghai Retro Style Street. What will you think of when you mention old Shanghai? Is it the old records in the gramophone, rickshaws, or Shikumen? Although time cannot be turned back and we cannot return to the past. However! 1192 Alley Shanghai Retro Style Street can fulfill all your imaginations of old Shanghai! Let you travel back to old Shanghai in an instant. The story starts from 1192 Alley. From Shiliupu Wharf to foreign firm warehouses, from the bustling Shiliyangchang to the old and mottled Shikumen, and there are rickshaws shuttling through the streets and alleys.
Gradually stepping into the 1192 themed dining district, the old Shanghai memories that had been sealed for years surged like a tide, with those frozen moments gradually coming to life! Inside, there is a model ship docked at the riverside, a section of a train carriage, rickshaws and 28-inch bicycles parked around, bamboo chairs leaning against the wall, old-fashioned burlap bags, crates, and more. These items are truly rare to see nowadays. The district is also a gathering place for a variety of delicacies, matching the ‘modern, retro, nostalgic’ spatial context of this old Shanghai themed street. Renowned Chinese heritage brands such as Shen Da Cheng, Tai Kang Food, Old Shanghai Scallion Pancake, Old Shanghai House, and Da Hu Chun Dim Sum make their grand appearance here, capturing the familiarity of old Shanghai residents. Of course, there are also various old Shanghai urban architectures like alleys, warehouses, markets, dance halls, and shipyard docks, recreating the bustling scenes and local charm of ‘The Bund’. Filled with old Shanghai style, here you can find the复兴号 ship, old-fashioned trams, various old shop signs, all under the glow of tungsten light, giving a strong sense of age. Colorful umbrellas hang overhead, neon lights crisscross, and many elderly ladies in cheongsams are taking photos.
In the photography world of Shanghai, there is a group of people who enjoy climbing buildings. For a photography enthusiast, it’s impossible to miss this part of Shanghai’s rooftop climbing. But is there a suitable climbing spot for a photography enthusiast who is afraid of heights? Indeed, there is in Shanghai, a park on the rooftop that has recently become very popular—Gordon Park, located in Changfeng Joy City. Here, you can fulfill your dream of climbing buildings in Shanghai and even summon cats! Changfeng Joy City has created a pink aerial track on the rooftop, integrating sports fitness, trendy fashion, artistic appreciation, children’s play, and contemplation space. The most eye-catching feature here is the cat sculpture. This cat, named Ship’s Cat, was custom-made by Japanese contemporary artist Kenji Yonebayashi for Gordon Park. The 4-meter-tall cat, dressed in space elements, is very stylish, and its deep blue eyes seem to have the magic to draw people in. Get a cat-summoning spirit! The entire rooftop is traversed by this pink track, with some parts built in the air, and the large area of pink gives a very girlish heart feeling. This pink arch is very photogenic; as long as there is a blue sky, it looks good no matter how you shoot. Pink can make the skin tone look especially soft and beautiful. This place has already become a pink Monument Valley that has been played with! The rabbit lawn and rooftop scenery, this lawn is artificial, very clean, and the color brightness is also particularly high, with cute little rabbits on the lawn.
From the heights of Denggao Park, one can see Changfeng Park opposite. Looking at the lush trees and the skyscrapers set against each other, it is like the same as Central Park in the United States. 07 Chongming Island – Looking for the Place Closest to Director Guo. I believe that many post-80s youths were addicted to Guo Jingming’s novels. I am no exception. From ‘Cry Me a Sad River’ to ‘Tiny Times’. Coming to Shanghai to pursue an unfulfilled dream from youth. The distant place of this dream is at the Dingba of Chongming Island, the place where Yi Yao jumped into the sea in ‘Cry Me a Sad River’! Of course, if you have watched Korean dramas, this is also the same as in the Korean drama ‘Goblin’. In textbooks from the student days, there is an introduction to Chongming Island. It is the third largest island in China. The entire island of Chongming Island is a national geological park in China. Looking at it from the map, it is an island separated from the edge of Shanghai. If you want to get away from the hustle and bustle of the city and leave the bustling crowds, then this place will completely empty your mind. Move forward all the way through the Yangtze River Tunnel and the Shanghai Yangtze River Bridge. It is more than 70 kilometers from the urban area, and the toll is 50. It takes one and a half hours to arrive. On the way to Chongming Island, you will pass the Shanghai Yangtze River Bridge. This Yangtze River Bridge seems to have magic. Under the clear sky or as the night deepens, it always has a way to show off and make passing pedestrians stop and take pictures for it. After getting off the expressway, the road narrows a bit, but the sky becomes more and more thoroughly blue. When first stepping on Chongming Island, go to the wetland park in Dongtan first along Chenhai Road. This road is not winding, but very straight. However, the scenery on the roadside is very charming. In winter, Chongming Island still has lush green trees. Driving further, it suddenly changes into scattered sporadic small flowers. The color of that tree is also magical, either blood red like maple leaves or orange-yellow like fallen leaves, making it unpredictable. On this seemingly endless road, I always roll down the car window and let the wind on the island gently caress my face, gently sucking in the taste of freedom permeating the air above the road. Sometimes it makes people unable to resist turning into the small paths hidden in the fork of the road. Every small path is worth recording. I can only say that it is extremely beautiful. Looking into the distance, there is only me on the periphery of the empty scenic area. Here are rows of wind turbines, which are very shocking. When approaching and looking at it, it is larger than I imagined. Standing at its feet is like being beside the ‘Evangelion Unit 01’. One of the biggest characteristics of Dongtan is that there are large areas of reeds. When the wind blows, you can see the golden waves swaying. It seems that in the blink of an eye, people will be drawn into the gentle embrace of the reeds. The wind blows the reeds, and the rustling sound comes from the ears. Looking around at the uninhabited wetland, thoughts are blown to the other side of the reeds along with the wind.
Arriving at Dingba around 3 PM, I was greeted by a river flowing into a vast reed marsh. Having seen countless reed marshes on Chongming Island, this one, connected to the riverbank, seemed to stretch into an endless sea under the ashen sky (though it is actually the river’s mouth to the sea). The overcast skies of Shanghai approached dusk around 4 PM. As the tide began to rise, the river’s roar and the rustling of the reeds accompanied the patter of raindrops and the cold sea breeze. Yet, none of this could deter the steps towards this scenery. The extension of Dingba evoked a feeling of walking at the end of the world, profoundly moving and soothing to the soul. Here, the silt carried by the Yangtze River embraces the sea, with turbid, churning waters, strong sea winds, and passing ships. Troubles seem to settle here, turning into land and becoming part of the islands.
In the evening, the Shanghai Yangtze River Bridge exudes an exotic charm. In Songjiang District, Shanghai, there lies a town with a predominantly European style and architecture, making one feel as if walking on the streets of England. This is the Thames Town. Unlike the downtown area with its skyscrapers and the Bund with its bustling crowds, this town features Gothic churches, British-style buildings, Victorian balconies, ancient castles, squares, fountains, and quaint coffee shops. The winding cobblestone paths and colorful tree-lined avenues lead to the ‘Zhong Shu Ge’ bookstore, known as the most beautiful bookstore in Shanghai and a filming location for the movie ‘Tiny Times’. This is a town filled with enchanting British charm, and walking its streets feels like being in England. It is said that this town has a high degree of similarity to the Thames Town in England, even down to the black brick roads.
The most distinctive feature of the town is the Gothic church, visible upon entering through the main door. Its height makes it visible from any corner of the town, becoming the central landmark. Further along are the characteristic streets, the town square, and especially the Thames River, which, under the reflection, is imbued with the colors of oil paintings and a warm, romantic ambiance. Having heard about Shanghai’s most beautiful bookstore, I, being a book lover, always visit local characteristic bookstores in every city I visit. Naturally, I couldn’t miss the ‘Zhong Shu Ge’ in Shanghai. The traditional Chinese characters spelling ‘Zhong Shu Ge’ above the entrance are very eye-catching. Stepping inside is like entering an ocean of books, with walls, floors, and ceilings covered in books, even the transparent glass floor displaying them. The extensive use of glass is a design feature of Zhong Shu Ge, and through the large glass windows, one can see the bookshelves and arrangements.
Books are hidden behind the staircase leading to the second floor. The bookstore is bustling with people on both levels, some engrossed in reading while others are taking photos in various spaces, presumably drawn by the reputation of being Shanghai’s ‘most beautiful bookstore’. Each reading area is uniquely designed, filled with creative ideas that blend well with the town’s delicate charm and British style. The VIP reading area on the second floor features a starry sky, with a darker overall tone, giving off an ambiance of reading by candlelight. The church-like pointed ceiling space is particularly appealing, with its semi-arched high ceiling design, white bookshelves curving along the walls on both sides, seamlessly integrated with the pointed top. White desks paired with black chairs create an elegant and solemn atmosphere, giving a sense of sanctity. Another room features a large glass ceiling with curved bookshelves on all sides, and a square pillar with mirrors on the top and middle, reflecting a spacious environment. When tired from walking, sit down to admire the vines on the wall or watch the passers-by, everything is so casual. Be a quiet beauty, slowly savoring the slow pace of life with British style. You can also find a quiet corner to take some portraits. Postscript on self-driving route planning: Day 1: Depart from Guangzhou to Shanghai, check into the hotel—Waibaidu Bridge—The Bund—Nanjing Road. Day 2: 1192 Shanghai Retro Style Street, Changfeng Joy City. Day 3: Chongming Island. Day 4: Thames Town—End of the trip, fly back to Guangzhou. In four days, I experienced the bright and prosperous nights of the Magic City, the charm of old Shanghai, the fresh and small town of the Magic City, and escaped the cold steel forest of the Magic City to embrace nature and release myself, feeling the British style town with exotic atmosphere. After each trip, I always think that I must bring my child next time, and the whole family will explore this multifaceted city of the Magic City again. See you next time, Magic City.