Suzhou, Shanghai, Zhejiang: A 3-Person Self-Drive Adventure

Duration: 4 days, Time: May, Cost per person: 1000 yuan, Companions: Friends, Travel style: Self-drive, self-guided tour. Posted on 2024-03-08 at 12:21 PM. This was another spontaneous journey, embarked upon by three old friends who have been together for years, taking advantage of a trip to Shanghai for some business to explore for four days. Having lived in Jiangsu and visited most of the surrounding attractions, we racked our brains during the journey to think of places we hadn’t been to, or those we had visited long ago but had since forgotten. Thus, we decided to visit five attractions: the Beigushan in Zhenjiang, Jinxi Ancient Town in Suzhou, Zhujiajiao Ancient Town in Shanghai, Tianmu Mountain in Zhejiang, and Maoshan in Zhenjiang. As the journey was nearing its end, we were invited to visit Maoshan again. Although I had been there at least three times before, the prospect of being personally received by the Taoist abbot of Maoshan and being shown the four treasures of the mountain was too intriguing to resist. On the first day, we visited Beigushan, one of the three famous mountains in Zhenjiang, located near the Yangtze River with steep and solid terrain, and towering cliffs, hence the name Beigushan. Together with Jinshan and Jiaoshan, they form a strategic triangle, with Beigushan standing out in its majestic and perilous position in controlling the Chu and Wu regions. The story of ‘Liu Bei’s Marriage Proposal at Ganlu Temple’ during the Three Kingdoms period took place here. The pavilions, towers, and mountain paths on the mountain are all related to historical legends such as the marriage alliance between Sun and Liu during the Three Kingdoms period. Ganlu Temple, perched on the mountain peak, forms the characteristic ‘temple crowning the mountain’. It is said to have been built in the first year of the Ganlu era of the Eastern Wu during the Three Kingdoms period (AD 265), and although it has been destroyed and rebuilt many times, the temple complex includes the main hall, the Hall of the Old Lord, the Hall of Guanyin, and the Jiangsheng Pavilion, which, despite its small size, is quite famous. Walking up the ancient path of Eastern Wu to Ganlu Liufang, also known as the Stone Ram, it is said that when Cao Cao led his million-strong army southward, Sun Quan sat on the Stone Ram discussing strategies with Liu Bei to defeat Cao Cao. The Jiangjiang Pavilion, with its flying eaves and dougong brackets, has an elegant design, also known as Lingyun Pavilion. It is said that after hearing the news of Liu Bei’s death, Lady Liu, also known as Sun Shangxiang, offered a distant sacrifice here and then committed suicide by jumping into the river. The patriotic poet of the Southern Song Dynasty, Xin Qiji, climbed this pavilion, saw the endless Yangtze River flowing eastward, and expressed his feelings on the spot, using the past to satirize the present, condemning the incompetence and complacency of the Southern Song rulers, who did not strive to recover the lost territories of the Central Plains. He wrote two timeless masterpieces, ‘Nanxiangzi Remembering Beigushan at Jingkou’ and ‘Yongyuele Remembering the Past at Beigushan at Jingkou’, which express his deep hope for the future of the country: Where can one look at the divine land, with the scenery of Beigushan in full view. How many events of rise and fall have there been throughout the ages, leisurely. The endless Yangtze River flows on and on. In youth, with a thousand helmets, the war in the southeast has not yet ended. Who among the heroes of the world is a match for Cao and Liu?
Duration: 4 days, Time: May, Cost per person: 1000 Yuan, Travel companions: Friends, Travel style: Self-drive, independent travel. Published on 2024-03-08 12:21. This was another impromptu journey, taken by three old friends who decided to embark on a four-day trip while one of them had some business in Shanghai. Having explored most of the attractions around Jiangsu, we racked our brains during the journey to think of places we hadn’t been to or those we had visited long ago and had forgotten. Thus, we decided on visiting five scenic spots: Bei Gu Mountain in Zhenjiang, Jinxi Ancient Town in Suzhou, Zhujiajiao Ancient Town in Shanghai, Tianmu Mountain in Zhejiang, and Maoshan in Zhenjiang. As our journey neared its end, we were invited to visit Maoshan again. Although I had been there at least three times, what intrigued me the most this time was the prospect of being personally received by the Daoist Abbot of Maoshan, who promised to show us the four treasures that protect the mountain. Such mystery and allure made it impossible to resist the invitation. Day 1 – Bei Gu Mountain, one of the three famous mountains in Zhenjiang, is located near the Yangtze River with a steep and rugged terrain, hence the name Bei Gu Mountain. Together with Jinshan and Jiaoshan, they form a trident-like formation, standing in a tripod stance, with Bei Gu Mountain being the most majestic and perilous in controlling Chu and supporting Wu. The story of ‘Liu Bei’s Marriage Proposal at Ganlu Temple’ during the Three Kingdoms period took place here. The pavilions, towers, and mountain paths are all related to historical legends such as the marriage alliance between Sun and Liu during the Three Kingdoms period. Ganlu Temple stands high on the peak, creating a ‘temple crowning the mountain’ feature. It is said to have been built in the first year of the Ganlu period of the Eastern Wu during the Three Kingdoms (AD 265), and although it has been destroyed and rebuilt many times, the temple includes a main hall, Laojun Hall, Guanyin Hall, and Jiangsheng Pavilion, which, despite its small size, is quite famous. Climbing up the ancient path of Eastern Wu, you will find ‘Ganlu Liufang Henshi’, also known as ‘Shiyang’, where it is said that when Cao Cao led a million-strong army southward, Sun Quan sat on the stone sheep discussing strategies to defeat Cao with Liu Bei. Jiajiang Pavilion, with its flying eaves and dougong brackets, has an elegant shape, also known as Lingyun Pavilion. The heart of a guest is washed by the flowing water, and the chest is filled with layers of clouds. Unconsciously, this body feels like a flying bird, and the hand is still capable of fishing for giant turtles. It is said that after hearing the news of Liu Bei’s death, Lady Sun Shangxiang once offered sacrifices here and then committed suicide by jumping into the river. The patriotic poet Xin Qiji of the Southern Song Dynasty climbed this pavilion and, seeing the Yangtze River rolling eastward, expressed his feelings on the spot, using the past to satirize the present, condemning the incompetence and complacency of the Southern Song rulers who did not strive to recover the lost lands of the Central Plains. He wrote two timeless masterpieces: ‘Nanxiangzi Climbing Jingkou Beigu Pavilion with Thoughts’ and ‘Yongyule Jingkou Beigu Pavilion Reminiscing the Past’, which express his earnest hopes for the future of the country: ‘Where to look at the divine land, the scenery is full of Beigu Tower. How many things have risen and fallen over the ages, leisurely. The endless Yangtze River rolls on. Young and wearing a thousand helmets, sitting in the southeast, the war has not stopped. Who among the heroes of the world is a match for Cao and Liu?’
Duration: 4 days. Time: May. Per capita cost: 1000 yuan. With whom: Friends. Way of travel: Self-driving and independent trip. Published on March 8, 2024, 12:21. This is another impromptu journey. Three old friends who have known each other for many years took the opportunity of going to Shanghai to handle some matters and embarked on a four-day tour. Born in Jiangsu, we have basically visited most of the surrounding scenic spots. So on the way, we racked our brains to think about which places we haven’t been to, or which places we have been to before but have forgotten due to the long time. So I decided to visit Beigu Mountain in Zhenjiang, Jinxi Ancient Town in Suzhou, Zhujiajiao Ancient Town in Shanghai, and Tianmu Mountain in Zhejiang. Near the end of the journey, someone invited us to Maoshan in Zhenjiang. I have been to Maoshan at least three times. What attracts me most this time is that the Taoist priest of Maoshan can receive us in person and said that he will also show us the four treasures of Maoshan. So mysterious and fascinating that there is no reason not to go.
图片描述
Day 1 – 1. Beigu Mountain, one of the famous scenic spots of the three mountains in Zhenjiang, is close to the Yangtze River. The mountain is steep and solid, and the stone walls are lofty. Hence it is named Beigu Mountain. It forms a triangle with Jinshan and Jiaoshan. The three mountains stand in opposition. In terms of controlling Chu and guarding Wu, Beigu Mountain is even more majestic and perilous. In the Three Kingdoms period, the story of ‘Liu Bei’s marriage recruitment at Ganlu Temple’ took place here. The pavilions, terraces, buildings, mountain stones and ravines on the mountain are all related to historical legends such as the marriage alliance between Sun Quan and Liu Bei in the Three Kingdoms period. Ganlu Temple is located on the top of the peak, forming the characteristic of ‘the temple crowning the mountain’. It is said that it was first built in the first year of Ganlu in the Eastern Wu Dynasty (265 AD). Later, it was rebuilt many times after being abandoned. The temple includes the main hall, Laojun Hall, Guanyin Hall, Jiangsheng Pavilion, etc. Although the scale is not large, its reputation is not small. Climbing up along the ancient road of the Eastern Wu Dynasty, ‘Ganlu Flows Fragrantly, Evil Stone’, also known as Stone Sheep. It is said that when Cao Cao led a million troops to march south, Sun Quan sat on the stone sheep and discussed with Liu Bei the grand plan to defeat Cao Cao. Sacrifice to the River Pavilion has upturned eaves and dougong, with an elegant shape. Also known as Lingyun Pavilion. ‘The guest’s heart is washed by flowing water, and layers of clouds rise in the chest. This body unconsciously emerges like a flying bird. Hanging hands can still catch a giant turtle.’ Legend has it that after Lady Liu, Sun Shangxiang, heard the news of Liu Bei’s death, she offered sacrifices here from afar and then threw herself into the river. The patriotic poet Xin Qiji of the Southern Song Dynasty ascended this pavilion. Seeing the Yangtze River rolling eastward for thousands of miles, he expressed his feelings on the spur of the moment, used the past to satirize the present, condemned the fatuity and seeking ease of the rulers of the Southern Song Dynasty, and did not plan to recover the lost land in the Central Plains. He wrote two masterpieces that have been passed down through the ages and placed high hopes on the future of the country: ‘Where can I look at the land of Shenzhou? The Beigu Tower is full of beautiful scenery. How many events of rise and fall have there been throughout the ages? Endlessly. The Yangtze River rolls on without end.’ ‘In youth, he had thousands of helmets and armors. Sitting firmly in the southeast, he was constantly at war. Who among the heroes in the world is his match? Cao Cao and Liu Bei.’


A son should emulate Sun Zhongmou. Across the ages, the heroes are gone, only Sun Zhongmou remains. The stages of dance and song, the elegance of the past, all swept away by wind and rain. In the slanting sun, grasses and trees, ordinary alleys, it is said that the adopted son once lived here. Recalling the past, with golden spears and iron horses, the spirit that swallowed thousands of miles like a tiger. Yuanjia’s hasty actions, sealing the wolf’s dwelling, won a hurried northern glance. Forty-three years, still remembered in the distance, the beacon fires along the Yangzhou road. How can one bear to look back, under the temple of the Buddha, a patch of sacred crows and drums. Who can ask, Lian Po is old, can he still eat? From the west to the east, from south to north, the water is vast and the sky is high, with the potential to swallow the heavens and spit out the earth.


It is said that during the Three Kingdoms period, when Liu Bei came to the Eastern Wu to propose marriage, Sun Quan accompanied him to enjoy the river view after the feast. Liu Bei saw the majestic Bei Gu Mountain towering by the river, the great river flowing eastward, boundless and majestic, and couldn’t help but praise: ‘Bei Gu Mountain is truly the best under heaven!’. During the Southern and Northern Dynasties, Emperor Wu of Liang ascended Bei Gu Mountain, saw the extremely spectacular scenery, and wrote the six characters ‘The Best Under Heaven’ with great interest, leaving them on the mountain, but unfortunately, they cannot be found now. In the Southern Song Dynasty, Runzhou’s (Zhenjiang) governor and famous calligrapher Wu Ju rewrote these six characters. During the Kangxi period of the Qing Dynasty, Cheng Kangzhuang from Zhenjiang Prefecture copied and engraved them on stone. Since then, Bei Gu Mountain has rightfully been known as ‘The Best Under Heaven’.


The legend of Nanxu Jingyu dates back to the end of the Western Jin Dynasty, when the north was in chaos and the Eastern Jin Dynasty settled in the south, establishing its capital in Jianye (today’s Nanjing). At that time, people from the north flocked southward, and the Eastern Jin Dynasty set up Xuzhou for this reason, with its governance located in Jingkou (today’s Zhenjiang). By the time of the Liu Song Dynasty, it was officially named Nanxuzhou, and from then on, ‘Nanxu’ has always been an alias for Zhenjiang. The city of Zhenjiang in China and the city of Tempe in the United States have each planted a tree of friendship.


The Iron Pagoda, also known as ‘Wei Gong Tower’, is an important cultural relic on Bei Gu Mountain. It is one of the only six remaining iron pagodas in our country and the only iron pagoda in Jiangsu Province, a provincial-level cultural heritage protection unit. The ancient Ganlu Temple is located on the top of the northern peak of Bei Gu Mountain. It was first built during the Ganlu years of Eastern Wu (265-266 AD), and the temple’s plaque was written by Zhang Fei himself. To commemorate Zhenjiang’s past as the capital of Eastern Wu, to ensure that people will never forget the historical facts of the tripartite division of the Three Kingdoms, he moved the historical traces of the Liu-Sun alliance during the Three Kingdoms, the legends of the Sun-Liu marriage, and relics to the mountain. To this day, the traditional Peking Opera ‘Ganlu Temple’ (also known as ‘Dragon and Phoenix Auspicious’) has penetrated the folk. The ancient Ganlu Temple was grand in scale, with more than 500 monks in the Song Dynasty. The Ming and Qing Dynasties were its heyday, with more than 200 temples, halls, and monk’s houses. Emperors Kangxi and Qianlong once built temporary palaces here. Ganlu Temple is also one of the famous ancient temples in China. Its architectural features are different from those of Jinshan and Jiaoshan, adopting the technique of ‘using the temple to suppress the mountain’, hence it has the momentum of a flying pavilion in the sky, forming the characteristic of ‘temple crowning the mountain’.


D1-2 Jinxi Ancient Town is a typical Jiangnan water town with a history of over two thousand years, known as the ‘Hometown of Chinese Folk Museums’, preserving numerous cultural landscapes, historical sites, and countless buildings with distinctive Ming and Qing characteristics. Famous attractions include Tongshen Yuyuan, Chen Fei Shui Zong, and Lianchi Chan Yuan, among others. The town is crisscrossed with rivers and canals, surrounded by lakes, with streets and alleys following the water, bridges and alleys connected, and most of the existing residences built during the Ming and Qing dynasties and the Republic of China period. These houses are built along the water, with one or two-story brick and wood structures, green tiles and white walls, with doors and windows opening to the water or built water piers and docks. The two riverside streets form the main commercial street of the ancient town. It has successively been awarded the titles of ‘China’s Famous Historical and Cultural Town’, ‘Hometown of Chinese Folk Art’, ‘National Beautiful Environment Town’, ‘China’s Human Settlement Example Award’, ‘National Characteristic Landscape Tourism Town’, and ‘National AAAA-level Tourist Scenic Area’. At the entrance, there is a stone archway with the words ‘Water Town Buddhist Country’, flanked by couplets: ‘The long embankment reflects the moon, the water tomb spreads fragrance, white water egrets seek old acquaintances, flying pavilions soar into the sky, clouds pass by, and the sound of bells from the Zen temple has a new voice’, which seems to be a symbolic water corridor in Jinxi. Chen Fei Shui Zong in the center of the lake is located in the Wu Bao Lake in the south of the town. In the first year of the Longxing era of the Song Dynasty (1163), when the Jin army invaded, Emperor Xiaozong moved south to Lin’an with his family, and Chen Fei died of illness on the way, and was buried in the water tomb. Jinxi Town was also known as Chenmu Town in the past. Stone streets, stone slopes, under the shade of green trees, and leisurely boats, the famous writer Shen Congwen described it as ‘a sleeping girl’. The water-side corridor provides shelter from rain and sun, suitable for shopping and resting, and is a place by the water. The ancient town’s waterways are 6 kilometers long, with many ancient bridges, known as ’36 bridges and 72 kilns’.


D2 Zhujiajiao is located at the junction of Jiangsu, Zhejiang, and Shanghai, belonging to Qingpu District, Shanghai, and is a typical Jiangnan water town, known as ‘the largest town in Shanghai’. It has several old streets such as North Street, Dongjing Street, Xijing Street, Da Xin Street, Dongshi Street, Shengli Street, Caohe Street, Donghu Street, and Xihu Street, among which North Street was selected as one of ‘Shanghai’s Top Ten Leisure Streets’ in November 2005. During the Song and Yuan dynasties, a small town gradually formed, named Zhujiacun. To the west of the waterway, there is Dianshan Lake, with Dianchuan River running horizontally and Zhumao River running vertically, connecting with the Taihu water system above and leading directly to the Huangpu River below. The waterways are broad and well-connected. In the 40th year of the Wanli era of the Ming Dynasty (1612), due to the convenience of water transportation and the gathering of commerce, it was once famous for the cloth industry in Jiangnan, known as ‘clothing the world’, and became a major town in Jiangnan. At the end of the Ming and the beginning of the Qing dynasties, Zhujiajiao’s rice industry suddenly rose, driving the prosperity of all industries, ‘three miles of long streets, a thousand shops’, with famous old stores and well-known brands, a complete range of north and south goods, and business reaching beyond the provinces of Jiangsu and Zhejiang by hundreds of miles, hence the saying ‘three jings (Zhuji, Fengji, Siji) are not as good as one corner (Zujiajiao)’.


The ancient water towns of Jiangnan, with their thousand-year-old towns like Zhujiajiao, are characterized by small bridges over flowing streams, ancient camphor trees, shops along the streets, lantern-lit boats, stone wharfs, and white walls with black tiles. These elements together form a picturesque scene of a water town. During the planned economy era, various tickets and certificates were in use, and when the weather turned rainy, the streets were washed clean and tidy, enhancing the rustic charm.


On the banks of the Caogang River, the Yuanjin Temple and the Caogang River, as well as the Han Dalun Sauce Garden on North Tai’an Street, were established in 1915. The most famous Shengsheng Bridge of the Qing Dynasty Post Office is the largest five-arch stone bridge in the Shanghai area, spanning the Dianpu River. Below the bridge, a variety of delicious foods are abundant and eye-catching. There are many snack shops on the street where you can taste the famous Auntie Zong’s zongzi, ancient town tangyuan, and sauced pig’s trotters, as well as various exquisite pastries. As the rain gradually intensifies, tourists either seek shelter or leave, and the number of pedestrians gradually decreases. Afterward, business is conducted in Shanghai.


On the third day, Tianmu Mountain, historically known as Fuyu Mountain, is renowned as ‘the tree canopy that spreads its fame across the nine provinces.’ It is located within the Lin’an District of Zhejiang Province, at the border of Zhejiang and Anhui provinces. The main peak, Xianren Ding, stands at an altitude of 1506 meters. The name ‘Tianmu’ dates back to the Han Dynasty, with two peaks, each topped with a pool that never dries up, hence the name. It is also the largest site of the Vajrapani Bodhisattva’s traces in the country. Tianmu Mountain is known for its layered green peaks, lush ancient trees, perilous strange rocks, and magnificent springs and waterfalls. It has long been known as the ‘Kingdom of Trees’ and the ‘Cool World,’ a place for both ancient and modern people to appreciate and rejuvenate. Tianmu’s thousand layers of beauty and the deep spiritual mountains have bestowed upon humanity an inexhaustible wealth of brilliant culture and unique natural charm.


Liang Dynasty’s Prince Zhaoming Xiaotong, Tang Dynasty’s Li Bai and Bai Juyi, Song Dynasty’s Su Shi, and Yuan Dynasty’s Zhang Yu all left behind beautiful poems and works that have been passed down through the ages. More than 100 literati from the Ming Dynasty climbed Tianmu Mountain to explore its secluded wonders, composing over 160 poems. Tianmu Mountain is a famous mountain that integrates Confucianism, Taoism, and Buddhism, as well as a mountain of historical culture. Prince Zhaoming of the Southern Dynasties Liang Dynasty once sorted and edited the ‘Wenxuan’ here. Zhang Daoling, a great master of Taoism in the Western Han Dynasty, was born and practiced here. The ‘Dongyuan Collection’ of the Eastern Han Dynasty referred to Tianmu Mountain as the thirty-fourth Taoist cave heaven. Buddhism entered the mountain during the Jin Dynasty, with more than 50 temples and monasteries, and at its peak, there were more than a thousand monks, making it the birthplace of the revival of the Japanese Rinzai Sect’s Yongyuan Temple, which also has a broad influence in Southeast Asia.


The Zen Temple, historically as famous as Hangzhou’s Lingyin Temple, is surrounded by mountains and has an extremely elegant scenery. During the Anti-Japanese War, it was the location of Zhejiang Province’s No. 1 Middle School, and Zhejiang University was temporarily relocated here. In 1939, Comrade Zhou Enlai gave a speech on unity against Japan at the Ba Zi Hall of the Zen Temple. Although it has experienced war and erosion, some relics still幸存. Along the way, the couple trees are accompanied by the murmuring stream, and the moss marks are everywhere, like a green fairy tale, with a strong sense of primitive desolation.


Photograph capturing an ancient stone bridge along the way. On the millennium-old ancient path, towering trees stand like guardians. By the roadside, there is a stone tablet dedicated to the ‘King of Big Trees’, a tree Emperor Qianlong of the Qing Dynasty named during his southern tour to Xitianmu Mountain. Legend has it that the bark of this tree could cure all diseases, leading to tourists and pilgrims stripping it, which caused the tree to wither away in the 1930s. However, despite being dead for over 90 years, the ‘King of Big Trees’ still stands proudly, with a new green branch sprouting from its withered trunk. To the left, there is a stele inscribed with ‘King of Big Trees’ by Yu Youren, a member of the Kuomintang; Zhou Enlai also once embraced this tree with others. The new ‘King of Big Trees’, a rising star born in the Metasequoia forest not far from the old one, is now a unique treasure in China.



This is the oldest ginkgo tree in the world, dating back 12,000 years, a plant from the same era as dinosaurs, known as the ‘Ancestor of Ginkgoes’. From its base, 22 small shoots have sprouted, and it’s unclear how many generations coexist!



The Kaishan Old Hall, built during the Yuan Dynasty, is recorded in the ‘Commentary on the Water Classic’ by Li Daoyuan of the Northern Wei Dynasty, and has a history of over 700 years. Inside, it serves as a display hall for Zen culture, and there is an interesting couplet handwritten by Hu Shi: ‘Speak as much as the evidence allows, ring the bell as long as you are a monk for a day.’



Half-Moon Pond D4-1 Yanshan Park We stayed at an international hotel in Liyang, with a large park to the right front of the hotel, offering an infinite view. After rising early, we visited the park. With mountains and waters, the scenery changes along the path. The curves are graceful, and the green plants are pleasing to the eye. The artificial waterfall merges with the landscape. Arched flower gates by the fitness trail. This is a very large park, and we walked around it completely, except for the children’s play area.



D4-2 Maoshan, located at the junction of Jin Tan in Changzhou and Jurong in Zhenjiang, is the first blessed land and the eighth cave heaven of Taoism. It is rich in historical relics and cultural monuments. In the two-thousand-year development of Maoshan Taoism, the Three Mao真人 are revered as the founding ancestors, and it is the birthplace of the Shangqing sect of Taoism, known as the ‘Shangqing Altar’. Maoshan is known for its strange peaks and ravines, and is considered a blessed land with three palaces and five Taoist temples. Above the Maoshan New Fourth Army Memorial Hall are exhibition pictures and artifacts inside and outside the hall. The Memorial to the Victory of the Anti-Japanese War in Southern Jiangsu, with statues of Chen Yi and Su Yu, has an inscription by General Zhang Aiping. At the end of April 1938, the Red Army entered the Maoshan area and established the Maoshan-centered Anti-Japanese base in Southern Jiangsu. The base played a significant role as a spearhead, base, and hub, making a major contribution to the final victory of the national war of resistance against Japan. The miraculous thing is that when setting off firecrackers at the steps of the mountain, the sound of the Red Army’s bugle can be heard from the top of the mountain. ‘Setting off firecrackers in front of the monument, the bugle sounds in the air’ has become a unique phenomenon in the world. I have visited the Maoshan Scenic Area several times, and the main purpose of this trip was to appreciate the treasures of the Maoshan Taoist temple.


Our companion’s cousin, a fellow practitioner, was well-acquainted with the Daoist master of Maoshan, which granted us privileged access to appreciate the sacred treasures of the mountain. We took the electric shuttle to the Jiuxiao Wanfu Palace, where a Daoist friend invited us into a rest hall beside the temple. Over a cup of tea, we awaited the master’s arrival. After a brief exchange, he produced a key from his person, unlocked a safe, and presented a box. He then began to explain its contents, ultimately gifting each of us a sachet with a talisman bearing a jade seal.

During the Northern Song Dynasty, Emperor Zhezong’s mother, Meng, accidentally swallowed an embroidered silver needle. The imperial doctors were helpless, and Meng was resigned to her fate. Zhezong then sought a remedy across the nation. Upon the recommendation of Prime Minister Wang Anshi, the 25th generation master of Maoshan, Liu Hunkan, was summoned to the palace. Using the secret talismans and elixirs of Maoshan Daoism, he successfully saved Empress Dowager Meng (the talisman ash, elixir, and thread were mixed with water and ingested, and the needle was expelled with the thread threaded through its eye). Delighted, Zhezong was deeply impressed by the miraculous medical skills of the Daoist and bestowed upon Liu Hunkan the title ‘Dongyuan Tongmiao Dharma Master’, allowing him to reside in the capital’s Shangqing Chuxiang and correspond directly with the emperor. He was also granted wealth and the imperial bestowal of the Yuanfu Wan Ning Palace. Later, when Emperor Huizong ascended to the throne, he invited Liu Hunkan to the capital once more and bestowed upon him eight treasures, which included a jade seal of the Maoshan Daoist Nine Elders, a jade talisman of heaven and earth, an imperial jade tablet, a jade inkstone, an imperial jade target, twelve scrolls of ‘Shangqing Dadong Secret Talismans’, twelve scrolls of ‘Shangqing Dadong Ticket and Oath Words’, and a volume of ‘Liao King’s Poems’. Liu Hunkan preferred not to stay in the capital and returned to Maoshan after a year, where these treasures were regarded as the ‘Sacred Treasures of the Mountain’. Over time, due to wars and other reasons, four of these treasures were lost, leaving only the jade seal, jade tablet, jade talisman, and jade inkstone, which are still treasured at the Jiuxiao Wanfu Palace.

The jade seal: Inscribed with the seal script ‘Jiulao Xiandu Jun Yin’, it is said to have been made from the leftover jade of Emperor Qin Shi Huang’s imperial seal or from a part of the Warring States’ ‘He Shi Bi’. It is also said that Zhu Yuanzhang once took this seal into the palace with the intention of reworking it into the ‘Fengtian Chengyun Wenbao’ seal. However, after three attempts, the seal still bore the six characters ‘Jiulao Xiandu Jun Yin’. In 1379, during the Hongwu era, the seal was returned to Maoshan.

The jade inkstone: This is a jade inkstone that produces water droplets when you exhale on it, allowing you to舔 the brush and dip it into the ink, which then turns into a cinnabar color. There are two small lines on the inkstone, resembling two fish dragons. The most magical aspect is that at noon and midnight, the two fish dragons would meet inside the inkstone’s nest, a phenomenon known as ‘Zi Wu Gui Cao’. However, this phenomenon ceased after the son of Zeng Guofan accidentally dropped it, damaging the top left corner.

The jade talisman, also known as the ‘Zhenxin Talisman’, is made of white jade and inscribed with the seal script ‘He Ming Tian, Di Ri Chi’, which is believed to ward off evil and protect peace.

The jade tablet: Maoshan is the Shangqing altar of Daoism, also known as the ‘Zongtan Yu Gui’.

Only when sacrificing to heaven, earth and Taoist ancestors can one hold a jade tablet. This jade tablet, 34 centimeters long, has a texture on the upper part that looks like a flying bat from a distance and a soaring dragon in the sky when viewed up close. The middle part seems to be surrounded by clouds and mist. The bottom resembles overlapping mountain ranges. Moreover, it can change with the seasons and present different jade colors. In spring and autumn, there is often “sweat” oozing out.


Take a closer photo of the four treasures. The Imperially Bestowed Jiuxiao Wanfu Palace is located at the highest point of Maoshan Mountain and is also the Taoist temple with the greatest influence on Maoshan. Because it is located on the top of the main peak of Maoshan, Damao Peak, it is usually also called the Top Palace. It was built by imperial grant during the Wanli period of the Ming Dynasty.


The Imperially Bestowed Yuanfu Wanning Palace is also called Yin Palace. This was originally the place where the treasure that guards the mountain – the jade seal – was stored. Therefore, there is a saying on Maoshan that “one stick of incense in the Top Palace and one seal in Yin Palace”.


Looking back at the Gate of All Wonders, the Tao is deep in the mountains and secluded, the forests are dense and the waters are beautiful. It has a long history and a profound origin. Meeting by chance is extremely rare, extremely delightful and indescribable!


Leave a Comment

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *


Shopping Cart